Entree: Philippines – Ilocano – Papaitan (Bitter soup of beef or goat innards flavored with bile and aromatics typical of Ilocano cooking)

Serving Size: 6

Approximate Time

Prep 15 min

Cook 2 hrs

Additional 15 min

Total 2 hrs 30 min

Ingredients

- 2 lb (900 g) beef tripe, cleaned and cut into bite-sized pieces
- 1 lb (454 g) assorted beef innards such as heart and intestines, cleaned and chopped
- 1 lb (454 g) beef shank or soup bones for broth
- 10 cups (2.4 L) water
- 1 medium yellow onion, chopped, about 6 oz (170 g)
- 4 cloves garlic, crushed (about 12 g)
- 2 in (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, sliced
- 3–4 green chilies (siling haba or bird’s eye), whole or halved to taste
- Fresh animal bile (apà), to taste
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) fish sauce (patis)
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) cooking oil
- 1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh kalamansi or lime juice
- 1 tsp (5 g) ground black pepper
- 2 tbsp (12 g) chopped scallions
- Salt, to taste

Instructions

1. Rinse the tripe and innards thoroughly. Place tripe in a pot, cover with water, add a splash of vinegar, bring to a boil 5 minutes, then drain and rinse to remove impurities; repeat if necessary.
2. In a large pot, add the beef shank or bones and 10 cups (2.4 L) water; bring to a gentle boil and simmer 1–1.5 hours until a rich broth forms. Skim any scum.
3. Add the cleaned tripe and assorted innards to the broth and simmer until tender, about 45–60 minutes more depending on size.
4. Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp (30 ml) cooking oil in a skillet over medium heat; sauté chopped onion, crushed garlic, and sliced ginger until soft and aromatic, about 3–4 minutes. Add the green chilies and continue cooking 1 minute.
5. Transfer the sautéed aromatics to the pot with the simmering offal. Stir in 2 tbsp (30 ml) fish sauce and 1 tsp (5 g) ground black pepper; taste and adjust salt.
6. Reduce heat to low. Add a small amount of fresh animal bile (apà) and stir, then simmer briefly and taste; add more bile gradually until the characteristic bitter note is achieved. Balance bitterness with 1/4 cup (60 ml) kalamansi or lime juice added near the end.
7. Simmer 5–10 minutes to marry flavors. Finish with 2 tbsp (12 g) chopped scallions and additional black pepper if desired.
8. Serve hot with steamed rice and extra calamansi or lime wedges on the side.