Entree: Wallis and Futuna – National Cuisine – umu (earth oven)

Serving Size: 6

Approximate Time

Prep 40 min

Cook 3 hrs

Total 3 hrs 40 min

Ingredients

- 1 whole chicken, approx. 3 lb (1.4 kg)
- 2 whole reef fish (snapper or similar), approx. 1.5 lb (680 g) each, gutted and scaled
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) lime juice
- 2 tsp (10 g) sea salt, divided
- 1 tsp (5 g) freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) coconut cream
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) coconut milk
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) grated fresh ginger
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 small onion, sliced (about 4 oz / 115 g)
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) soy sauce or local fish sauce (optional)
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) vegetable oil
- 2 lb (900 g) taro roots, scrubbed
- 2 lb (900 g) yams or sweet potatoes, scrubbed
- 2 medium breadfruit, peeled and cut into chunks, total approx. 3 lb (1.4 kg)
- 6 green bananas or plantains, peeled (for cooking)
- 6–8 banana leaves (cleaned and wilted over heat)
- Hot rounded stones (enough to cover a 2–3 ft pit) 
- Dry coconut husks or charcoal for building the fire
- Kitchen twine or strips of banana leaf for tying
- Fresh cilantro or local greens for garnish (optional)

Instructions

1. Prepare the pit and stones: dig a 2–3 ft (60–90 cm) wide pit, build a hot wood fire in it, and heat the rounded stones for 45–60 minutes until they are red-hot. Clear ashes but leave hot stones in the base. Wilt banana leaves over the fire so they are pliable.
2. Marinate the proteins: rub the chicken and fish with lime juice, 1 tsp (5 g) salt, black pepper, half the garlic, half the ginger, and 2 tbsp (30 ml) coconut cream; let sit 20–30 minutes. Toss sliced onion with remaining garlic, ginger, soy/fish sauce (if using), and 2 tbsp (30 ml) oil.
3. Par-cook dense roots slightly: place taro and yams on a baking sheet and roast at 350°F (175°C) for 20–25 minutes or simmer 10 minutes to reduce total umu cooking time; drain.
4. Assemble wrapped parcels: on a banana leaf, place a portion of breadfruit or root vegetables, a few slices of onion, and a drizzle of coconut milk; wrap and tie. For fish and chicken, place aromatics inside the cavity or alongside, add a spoon of coconut cream, wrap in banana leaf and tie securely. Make parcels for all items.
5. Layer the umu: place a bed of hot stones in the pit, arrange parcels directly on the stones in a single layer, then add another layer of stones over parcels. Cover all with a thick layer of banana leaves, then with sacks or earth to seal the pit and trap steam.
6. Cook and finish: let the umu cook for 2–3 hours (larger chicken/fish/roots may need up to 3 hours). Carefully uncover, remove parcels. Open one parcel to check doneness: chicken juices should run clear and fish should flake easily.
7. Serve: transfer meats, fish, and vegetables to a large platter. Spoon any concentrated coconut pan juices over the food, garnish with fresh cilantro or local greens, and serve family-style straight from the umu.