Entree: Mexico – Yucatan Peninsula, Campeche – Tikin Xic (Yucatecan Banana-Leaf Fish)

Serving Size: 4

Approximate Time

Prep 30 min

Cook 30 min

Additional 40 min

Total 1 hr 35 min

Ingredients

- 4 firm white fish fillets (grouper, snapper, or similar), approx. 8 oz (225 g) each, skin on, pin-boned
- 1 1/2 tsp (8 g) kosher salt, divided
- 1/2 tsp (1.5 g) freshly ground black pepper
- 4 tbsp (60 g) achiote paste (recado rojo)
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) sour orange juice (naranja agria) — or substitute 1/3 cup (80 ml) orange juice + 2 tbsp (30 ml) lime juice
- 3 tbsp (45 ml) vegetable oil or light olive oil
- 3 garlic cloves, crushed (approx. 9 g)
- 1 tsp (2 g) ground cumin
- 1 tsp (1 g) dried Mexican oregano
- 4 large banana leaves, washed and softened (no measurement)
- 1 small white onion, thinly sliced (approx. 6 oz / 170 g)
- 1 small orange, thinly sliced (or slices of sour orange), optional
- 1/4 cup (15 g) fresh cilantro, chopped, plus extra for garnish
- 2 limes, cut into wedges, for serving
- Kitchen twine or toothpicks to secure packets

For the cilantro-lime rice:
- 2 cups (370 g) long-grain white rice, rinsed
- 3 3/4 cups (900 ml) water
- 1 tbsp (15 ml) vegetable oil or butter
- 1 tsp (6 g) salt
- Zest of 1 lime
- 1/4 cup (15 g) chopped cilantro
- 1 tbsp (15 ml) lime juice

For the quick pickled red onions (cebolla morada en escabeche):
- 1 large red onion, thinly sliced (approx. 8 oz / 225 g)
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) white vinegar
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) water
- 1 tbsp (12 g) granulated sugar
- 1 tsp (6 g) salt
- 1 bay leaf (optional)
- 6 whole black peppercorns (optional)

Instructions

Short Description:
Achiote (recado rojo)–marinated firm white fish wrapped in banana leaves and slow-grilled or baked until fragrant and flaky, served with cilantro-lime rice and quick pickled red onions. This is a classic Campeche/Yucatecan main course with bold annatto flavor and citrus brightness.

Regional Notes:
This Campeche/Yucatan version uses achiote paste (recado rojo) and sour orange juice and is cooked wrapped in banana leaves to impart the characteristic smoky-earthy aroma. Unlike generic baked fish, Tikin Xic relies on the banana-leaf packet and the Yucatecan recado to create the distinct regional flavor, and it is traditionally accompanied by cebolla morada en escabeche (pickled red onion) and rice.

1. Make the pickled red onions: place sliced red onion in a heatproof jar or bowl. In a small saucepan combine vinegar, water, sugar, salt, bay leaf, and peppercorns; bring to a simmer and stir until sugar dissolves. Pour hot liquid over onions, cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate at least 30 minutes (can be made ahead).
2. Cook the cilantro-lime rice: heat 1 tbsp (15 ml) oil or butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the rinsed rice and toast, stirring, 1–2 minutes. Add 3 3/4 cups (900 ml) water and 1 tsp (6 g) salt; bring to a boil. Reduce to low, cover, and simmer 15–18 minutes until water is absorbed. Remove from heat, let rest 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork and stir in lime zest, 1/4 cup (15 g) chopped cilantro, and 1 tbsp (15 ml) lime juice. Keep warm.
3. Make the achiote marinade: in a blender or bowl whisk together achiote paste 4 tbsp (60 g), sour orange juice 1/2 cup (120 ml) or substitute, 3 tbsp (45 ml) oil, crushed garlic, cumin, oregano, 1 tsp (6 g) salt, and 1/2 tsp (1.5 g) black pepper until smooth.
4. Prepare the fish: pat fillets dry and lightly score the skin side. Rub a little salt (about 1/2 tsp / 3 g total) over fillets, then coat both sides with the achiote marinade. Arrange fillets in a shallow dish, cover, and refrigerate 30 minutes to 2 hours for flavor.
5. Soften banana leaves: pass banana leaves briefly over an open flame or dip in hot water to make them pliable, then pat dry and cut into pieces large enough to wrap each fillet. If leaves are very large, use one leaf per fillet; otherwise double them to prevent tearing.
6. Assemble packets: on each banana leaf place a few thin onion slices and a slice or two of orange (if using). Lay a marinated fillet on top, spoon any remaining marinade over the fish, add a few more onion/orange slices, then fold the leaf around the fillet and secure with kitchen twine or toothpicks to form a sealed packet.
7. Cook the Tikin Xic:
   - Grill method (traditional): preheat a covered grill to medium (about 350–400°F / 175–205°C). Oil the grates. Place packets seam-side down and grill covered 12–18 minutes depending on fillet thickness (fish is done when it flakes and reaches 145°F / 63°C). Rotate once if necessary for even cooking.
   - Oven method: preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Place packets seam-side up on a baking sheet and bake 20–25 minutes (larger fillets may need up to 30 minutes) until fish flakes and registers 145°F (63°C).
8. Finish and plate: open packets carefully (watch for steam). Place one fillet per plate with a generous scoop of cilantro-lime rice and a spoonful of pickled red onions (cebolla morada en escabeche). Garnish with chopped cilantro and lime wedges.
9. Serve: serve immediately while hot. Leftovers keep covered in refrigerator 1–2 days; reheat gently in a warm oven wrapped in foil.