Entree: Mexico – Yucatan Peninsula, Quintana Roo – Tikin Xic (Achiote Grilled Fish)

Serving Size: 4

Approximate Time

Prep 40 min

Cook 15 min

Additional 1 hr 30 min

Total 1 hr 50 min

Ingredients

- 4 red snapper fillets, skin-on, approx. 6 oz (170 g) each
- 4 tbsp (60 g) achiote paste
- 1 cup (240 ml) sour orange juice (naranja agria) — or 1/2 cup (120 ml) fresh orange + 1/2 cup (120 ml) lime juice if unavailable
- 3 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 tsp (5 g) ground cumin
- 1 tsp (1 g) dried oregano
- 1 tsp (5 g) kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 1/2 tsp (1.5 g) freshly ground black pepper
- 4 large banana leaves, rinsed and trimmed (or heavy-duty aluminum foil if needed)
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) vegetable oil (for brushing leaves)
- 1 tbsp (15 ml) neutral oil (for grill)
- 1 1/2 cups (300 g) long-grain white rice
- 3 cups (720 ml) water or fish stock
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) vegetable oil or lard for rice
- 1/2 medium white onion, finely chopped, for rice (approx. 3 oz / 85 g)
- 1/4 cup (15 g) chopped fresh cilantro, plus extra for garnish
- Juice of 1 lime, about 2 tbsp (30 ml)
- 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced (for escabeche), approx. 6 oz (170 g)
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) sour orange juice (or 1/4 cup orange + 1/4 cup lime) for pickling
- 1/2 cup (120 ml) white vinegar
- 1 tsp (4 g) sugar
- 1 tsp (5 g) kosher salt
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 medium tomatoes (roma or vine), about 8 oz (225 g)
- 1 habanero chile (or 1 serrano if less heat desired), stemmed (seeded if desired)
- 2 tbsp (30 ml) sour orange juice (or lime/orange mix)
- 2 tbsp (8 g) chopped cilantro (for salsa)
- Salt to taste for salsa
- Lime wedges, for serving
- 8 corn tortillas (optional), warmed

Instructions

Short Description:
Tikin Xic is a Yucatecan whole/fillet fish dish marinated in achiote and sour orange, wrapped in banana leaves, and grilled until smoky and aromatic. This version serves as a complete main course with cilantro-lime rice, pickled red onion (escabeche), and a bright habanero-tomato salsa.

Regional Notes:
This Quintana Roo variation uses achiote paste and naranja agria (sour orange) as the defining marinade, and the fish is wrapped in banana leaves before grilling to develop the traditional smoky, leaf-steamed aroma. Served with escabeche cebolla (pickled red onion) and simple rice, it contrasts with inland or pan-fried versions by its coastal ingredients and banana-leaf grilling technique.

1. Make the marinade: In a bowl combine achiote paste, 1 cup (240 ml) sour orange juice, minced garlic, ground cumin, dried oregano, 1 tsp (5 g) kosher salt and 1/2 tsp (1.5 g) black pepper. Whisk until a smooth, pourable marinade forms; warm slightly if needed to loosen achiote.
2. Marinate the fish: Pat fillets dry. Place fillets in a shallow dish and pour marinade over, turning to coat thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for 1–2 hours (up to overnight for deeper flavor).
3. Prepare banana leaves: Rinse and dry leaves. Briefly pass each leaf over an open flame or hot skillet for a few seconds to soften and make pliable, then brush both sides lightly with 2 tbsp (30 ml) vegetable oil to prevent sticking and tearing. Cut into 4 portions large enough to wrap each fillet.
4. Make the escabeche (pickled red onion): Place sliced red onion in a heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan combine 1/2 cup (120 ml) sour orange juice, 1/2 cup (120 ml) white vinegar, 1 tsp (4 g) sugar, 1 tsp (5 g) kosher salt and 2 bay leaves; bring to a simmer until sugar dissolves. Pour hot pickling liquid over onions; let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to serve.
5. Cook the rice: In a medium saucepan heat 2 tbsp (30 ml) oil over medium heat. Add chopped white onion and sauté until translucent, 3–4 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups (300 g) rice and stir to coat grains, toasting 1–2 minutes. Add 3 cups (720 ml) water or stock and 1 tsp (5 g) salt, bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer 15–18 minutes until liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat and let rest, covered, 5 minutes. Fluff with fork, stir in 1/4 cup (15 g) chopped cilantro and juice of 1 lime (about 2 tbsp / 30 ml).
6. Prepare the habanero-tomato salsa: Roast tomatoes and habanero over an open flame, under a broiler, or in a hot skillet until charred and softened, turning to blister all sides (about 6–8 minutes). Transfer to a blender with 2 tbsp (30 ml) sour orange juice and 2 tbsp (8 g) chopped cilantro; pulse to a coarse puree. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate until serving.
7. Wrap the fish: Remove fillets from marinade, reserving remaining marinade. Place each fillet on a prepared banana leaf square, spoon a little reserved marinade over the top, and fold the leaf to enclose the fish, tucking ends to seal (use a toothpick if needed). Repeat for all fillets.
8. Grill the packets: Preheat a grill to medium-high. Oil the grill grate lightly with 1 tbsp (15 ml) neutral oil. Place banana-leaf packets on the grill and cook 8–10 minutes per side, depending on fillet thickness, until fish registers 125–135°F (52–57°C) and flakes easily; timing will vary—thicker fillets may need up to 12–15 minutes total. The banana leaves will char slightly and steam the fish inside, imparting smoky aroma.
9. Rest and finish: Transfer packets to a platter and let rest 3 minutes. Open one packet carefully (hot steam) and spoon any collected juices over the fish. Garnish with chopped cilantro and lime wedges.
10. Serve: Plate one fillet per person with a generous scoop of cilantro-lime rice, a portion of pickled red onion (escabeche), a spoonful of habanero-tomato salsa, and warmed corn tortillas on the side. Enjoy immediately.